Christmas Letter
2018
It was the night
before Christmas…..
Last
year as refugees from twenty-seven Canadian winters, Clive and I biked along
the Carretera Austral through Patagonia. The Carretera is a 1,200km mainly
gravel road. Had I known I was going to
spend Christmas Eve miserably wet I would have planned better. The 23rd
Dec our friend Pedro, from Rio, Clive and I pitched our tents in a wooden
shelter by a lake. Just like British Columbia, rain hovered over the tree clad
hills, water lapped on the shore, as we warmed ourselves by a fire. In the
morning it rained. Not much was said as we packed our saddle bags and set off.
After a couple of hours, the road steepened, dripping wet and weary we biked
past a road workers shelter. Pablo and Annibal, student Chilean bikers popped
their heads out. “Hi, it’s dry in here.” Full of smiles they looked as if they
were having the best adventure ever. Fuelled up with milo powder mixed with
yoghurt and their youthful exuberance, we biked on the wet ripio - gravel road
- to the pass.
Tongues
of snow descended from the gloom that obscured the summits. Waterfalls spilled
over cliffs and snaked through the forest. We zipped our rain jackets up to our
chins then hurtled down. Trembling, cold to the bone, I hugged my instant coffee
and hot dogs purchased from a roadside food van. The rain trickled down my face
as we biked the next 30 km of tarmac past more waterfalls and rushing rivers,
breathing hard up the final uphill to the small village of Villa Amengual. I
passed a hand painted sign for the Refugio Para Cicilista but we hoped to find
better lodging for the night. We dripped around a small supermarcado with well
stocked shelves. After knocking on several the bed and breakfasts we were
disheartened to find there was no room at any inn.
Wet
and close to hypothermic we headed to the Refugio. Once again Pablo and Annibal
welcomed us with their big grins.
“Come
in. There is a wood stove.” We entered a basic room, their bikes on one wall
and mattresses on the floor. I held my wet back to warm stove.
“Come
and meet the owner Inis. She lives across the hallway.”
“Hola!
Make your selves at home,” she said beaming. “Yes I have hot shower. You can
dry your stuff by the stove. I thought I was going to be on my own tonight. I
will make a meal for you all.” Her place was so minimal I was touched by her
kindness.
Clive
headed back to the supermarket and returned with champagne, Chilean Merlot and
snacks. Meanwhile, Lean and Manuel, Argentinian
cyclists who we had met a week ago as they emerged from under their night under
a bridge, joined us. We were with five cyclists,
from Chile, Buenos Aires, Rio, Inis and her teenage son. Warm and dry we shared
wine, laughter, chatting in Spanish and English. Wonderful aromas came from Inis’s
kitchen as she and her son cooked. We sunk our teeth into juicy ribs, chicken,
salads and the finest lemon meringue pie. To round off the night, Pablo played
the guitar and sang Chilean folk songs.
Christmas
Day after a delicious breakfast, we hugged Inis goodbye. Basking in her Chilean
generosity we rode through the stunning Lago
Torres Reserve with wild tall trees and snow covered peaks, our hearts full of
gratitude for the true spirit of Christmas.
***************
On
our return we celebrated Clive’s 70 birthday with a family back country ski in
perfect weather. Then a party. It was
great that we all got together for this milestone.
The
year continued with trips, canoeing down the Red Deer with Andrew and Shona in
the May long weekend, hikes and backpacking here.
Clive
went to Greenland with his friend Douglas, Andrea, and their son Leif. The trip
was cut short when Leif had a serious problem with his one eye and had to rush
back to medical care in Edinburgh via Reykjavik.
I
met Clive in Scotland. I had a wonderful day with my niece and her three kids
9, 7 and 5 hiking their very first Munro
– as Scottish mountains over 3000 feet are called. It was an international day
with my nephew in law’s mom, Glynis and his brother, Kevin from South Africa.
The kids were amazing – and romped up and down the mountain with hardly any
complaints - impressive.
Then
we were off to North Berwick for a beach day with my other two nieces and their
4 boys.
“I
am loving this 110%” said 7 year old Lewis searching for crabs under the
seaweed.
“I
am 100% bored” said 5 year old Lucas.
They had a great time climbing on the ancient walls of Tantallon Castle
– a place of intense fighting 600 years or so ago – now surrounded with
peaceful fields and looks over to the Bass Rock surrounded by swooping gannets.
After
a five day sail around Mull with Douglas Anderson and time with friends, Clive
and I took off to the French Pyrenees for a wee 15 day hiked. It was fantastic.
In
spring Chris spent a month in Tibet on a ski trip – you can watch his adventure
“Higher Truths” by Salomon TV. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hh_5xgyEtpc&feature=player_embedded&fbclid=IwAR0zv-tfjknsmlxBWfBbIstscNm7ewB7ZsbEpCyRGDfXI0oa3m65DZf3few
He
followed this with 10 days trekking in Nepal then headed to Sri Lanka surf
vacation. He and his girlfriend Jesse visited us in Oct on their way to the
Baha. There was a big snow storm here. The roads were horrendous but they were
on a mission and left with 6 inches of snow on their surf boards. Fortunately
they made it to Calgary and then south where the roads improved. They looked
very relaxed on their return 5 weeks later.
Shona
and Andrew are enjoying living in Kimberly. She is an Environmental Officer
monitoring water contaminated by the disused mine. We had some good times with them walking
around their beautiful mountain town that is much quieter than this part of the
world.
We plan to stay
home this winter apart from a short trip in January to stay with a friend in
Arizona and visit a Mexican Dentist!!
As
the days shorten, the temperature drops we are enjoying the eating, skiing,
skating and friendship season.